Elegant Survival

Stylish Living on a Shoestring

  Elegant Cuisine 

Elegant Cuisine and Wines


 
Staphylia,Oil Painting on Canvas 16" X 20" by M-J de Mesterton 2006

 
M-J's Original Recipes
 
M-J's Autumn Potato Salad (Photo Copyright Elegant Survival 2008)


Elegant Autumn Potato Salad
Like the potato salad that my Swedish grandmother used to make for me, this dish relies upon some bacon, vinegar, and an onion.

M-J’s Autumn Potato Salad

Peel, quarter and boil eight medium sized potatoes, or ten small ones. Salt the boiling water. Alternatively, add some Maggi or Knorr chicken bouillon powder.
Boil the potato chunks for fifteen minutes. Drain but do not rinse them. In your cooking pot, sauté eight strips of bacon, finely chopped. Remove the bacon bits with a slotted spoon. and reserve in a small bowl or cup. Empty out  half of the bacon fat. Add two tablespoons of vegetable oil (I use peanut oil) and two tablespoons of vinegar (I use malt vinegar, apple cider vinegar, or white vinegar). If you have it, a tablespoon of concentrated apple juice can be added to this dressing mixture. You will adjust the vinegar and oil to your taste after the initial mixing of all ingredients. Add the potatoes, one finely diced small onion (red, white or yellow), and one diced, unpeeled apple. Grind some pepper into the mixture for taste, and check for salt. Mix gently. Serve lukewarm or at room temperature for  best flavor.

~~Recipe and Photo of Autumn Potato Salad Copyright M-J de Mesterton, 2008 

Update, September 2009

Leave the potatoes unpeeled for a rustic yet more nutritious potato salad.~~M-J de Mesterton 2009

 

 

Elegant French Wine, about Five Dollars U.S., by Caves des Papes

 

M-J's Savoury Fougasse


Click Photo to See M-J's Recipe

M-J's Elegant Cocktail Crisps

Elegant Survival: Stylish Living on a Shoestring

Parmesan Pine Nut Cocktail Crisps

Every time I make these simple pan-cooked wafers, no matter how irregularly shaped they may be, they are consumed with great enthusiasm. I'm not bragging; it's just because the ingredients in them are so pure and they complement wine or drinks perfectly.

Heat a flat, large frying pan or griddle to medium-high. No need to grease it; the Parmesan cheese will provide enough fat while cooking to ensure the wafers won't stick.

Grate two cups of Parmesan cheese, any brand. You can even chop it up in a food-processor or a blender.

Add a half-cup of chopped pine nuts (pignolia in Italian or pinon in Spanish), and mix well.

Season with a little red pepper. Do not add salt, because the cheese is salty enough.

Place a tablespoonful of this mixture on the hot griddle, and spread into thin round shape, about 3 inches diameter. These constructions can be a bit lace-like, as they melting cheese bits will form a strong matrix and will hold together. Repeat this process as many times as you can fit on your pan at once.  There will be no need to flip these over; just remove them when they are golden brown, and set them on your serving tray. I like to line mine with a large paper lace doilie to soak up some of the fat.

Tip: these Parmesan Pine Nut Crisps can be moulded while still warm in miniature muffin tins, then filled with compatible ingredients.

Parmesan Pine-Nut Cocktail Crisps must be prepared right before your party. They're so simple to make that your guests can watch you do it without rattling your nerves. These are perfect snacks for the person on a low-carb diet, since they are virtually carb-free.

Recipe Copyright M-J de Mesterton, 2008

The next time I make these for a party, I will show a photo of them here at Elegant Cuisine.

M-J's Elegant Apple Pie Recipe



 
M-J's Elegant Apple Pie Recipe
  • 4 cups of white flour (I prefer unbleached flour for a more richly colored crust)
  • 1 teaspoon of salt
  • 1 stick of salted butter, cut into 8 pieces
  • ¾ cup of lard (“manteca”)
  • 7 Fuji apples--cored, peeled, and thinly sliced (reserve peels and cores)
  • 2 tablespoons of cornstarch
  • 1/4 cup light-brown sugar (or more, according to your taste)
  • 1/4 cup granulated sugar
  • 3/4 cup of cold water
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
  • 1 teaspoon of apple cider vinegar
  • 1 additional half stick of butter
  • An extra 2 tablespoons of sugar, either white or brown
  • One cup of water

  • DIRECTIONS
  • 1. Make the dough: put one stick of cold butter into a large mixing bowl, together with the 3/4 cup of chilled lard and a teaspoon of salt. Add flour gradually, working it into the butter and lard. Add approximately 3/4 cup of cold water, then cider vinegar, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the dough forms small pea-shaped balls, and when formed into a large mound, it holds together. Sometimes less cold water is required--believe it or not, the amount needed to make a pie dough with this recipe depends upon the moon.'s current phase. Mix this by hand, since using machines will create a tough pie crust.  I use an old-fashioned wire potato masher and a wooden spoon. When the dough sticks together but doesn't stick to your hands, shape it into 2 balls, wrap each in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
  • 2. Put all of your apple peelings and cores into a saucepan on the stove with a cup of water and two tablespoons of sugar, and boil until the liquid becomes syrup. Strain liquid from solids and reserve it. The peelings can then be eaten or ground into applesauce--it's important not to waste any edible part of your apples.
  • 3. Assemble the pie: heat your oven to 425°F. Roll out one ball of dough into a 12-inch round about 1/8-inch thick, on a lightly floured surface. Fit the dough into a 9 or 10-inch pie pan (I use an old, white Corning glass one). Place one layer of apple slices into the dough-lined pan. Cover them with two tablespoons of cornstarch and a quarter-cup of brown sugar. Repeat this process with apples, sugars and cinnamon. Distribute the half-stick of butter on top of the apples after slicing it into bits. Add your apple syrup over the top of the pie. Alternatively, I sometimes skip the step of creating syrup from my apple peelings, and just use some apple juice concentrate (found in grocery frozen juice section).
  • Roll out the second ball of dough for the top crust. Brush the edges of the bottom crust with water or milk, and lay the top crust down, pressing the edges together to form a tight seal. Use your imagination to pierce or slice a design into the top of the pie to allow steam to escape. Bake for ten minutes at 425*F, then lower your oven heat to 350* and bake for another hour. Let the apple pie cool for a minimum of two hours before serving.
  • Elegant Apple Pie Recipe Copyright M-J de Mesterton 2008
  • Alternatively, a quiche pan maybe used to create an apple tart as shown below.

M-J's Party Recipes

 

  • Petits Choux au Fromage/Gougères: See Pâte à Choux au Fromage
  • Cheese Bennies

    1/2 lb. grated cheddar cheese
    1/4 lb. butter, soft
    1/2 teaspoon. salt
    1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper
    1 1/4 c. white flour
    1/2 cup of toasted sesame seeds

    Cream together the first 4 ingredients. Add flour and knead until just blended. Add sesame seeds to the dough, and knead it to distribute them. Form into 5 long, thin rolls. Chill in wax paper several hours. Slice into thin dimes. Bake at 350 degrees for 10-15 minutes. The prepared Bennie dough can be frozen in rolls and used later. These cocktail offerings are always a winner, and disappear quickly. In fact, for large parties, keep extra rolls of Bennie dough in the refrigerator so that they can be sliced and baked on demand. "Bennies" is another name for sesame seeds.

 

  • Petits Choux au Fromage/Gougères: See Pâte à Choux au Fromage
  • Cheese Bennies

    1/2 lb. grated cheddar cheese
    1/4 lb. butter, soft
    1/2 teaspoon. salt
    1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper
    1 1/4 c. white flour
    1/2 cup of toasted sesame seeds

    Cream together the first 4 ingredients. Add flour and knead until just blended. Add sesame seeds to the dough, and knead it to distribute them. Form into 5 long, thin rolls. Chill in wax paper several hours. Slice into thin dimes. Bake at 350 degrees for 10-15 minutes. The prepared Bennie dough can be frozen in rolls and used later. These cocktail offerings are always a winner, and disappear quickly. In fact, for large parties, keep extra rolls of Bennie dough in the refrigerator so that they can be sliced and baked on demand. "Bennies" is another name for sesame seeds.

 

Chile-Spiced Nuts
 

Dry-roasted peanuts can be turned into interesting party snacks. Never serve oily nuts at a gathering; people will inevitably get oil on their clothes and everything they touch, including other people's clothes. Always offer nuts that have been dry-roasted or baked in the oven.
The nuts pictured here were coated with wet and dry ingredients in a mixing bowl: water, Himalayan salt, cayenne pepper, and Bueno brand New Mexico red  chile powder, then roasted for half an hour on the middle rack of moderately hot oven. Below: coating the nuts in a mixing-bowl before baking.


M-J, December 6th, 2009

 

 

Pâte à Choux; Choux à La Crème; Petits Choux au Fromage

Croquembouche: Photo and Recipe Copyright Elegant Survival, 2008 (click image to enlarge)

Two Cups Makes about Forty Choux or Puff Shells

In a two-quart, heavy saucepan, boil one cup of water,
Six tablespoons of butter,
One teaspoon of salt,
One teaspoon of sugar (OR one 1/2 teaspoon of pepper, depending upon whether the choux-paste will be used for cream puffs or savoury cocktail offerings),
and a pinch of nutmeg.

When butter has melted, remove pot from heat.
Pour into the mixture one cup of flour. Beat with a wooden spoon until the lot is blended.
Put pot back on cooker at high heat, and continue to beat until the contents separate from the sides of the pot. Remove pot from heat again.

Now, you will need four large eggs.
Making a well in the potful of paste, break one egg into it. Beat it into the mixture, and repeat with the following three eggs, one at a time. Continue beating by hand until the paste is smooth.

You are now ready to fill a pastry bag and squeeze the paste onto a buttered baking sheet. In the absence of a pastry bag, you may use a gallon-sized, disposable zipper-bag like Zip-Lock, cutting off a 1/2 inch at one corner of it to emit pâte à choux. If this is still a problem, you may use a spoon to drop the paste onto the baking sheet.

Preheat the oven to 425* Fahrenheit.

Use the pâte à choux while it is still warm.

Form the pâte à choux into one-inch diameter circular mounds, 1/2 inch high. Space them two inches apart.

Brush each mound very lightly with beaten egg.

Bake for about twenty minutes. When the puffs are double their original size, golden brown and crusty, they may be removed from the oven. Make a 1/2 inch slit on the side of each puff to release steam.


I like to fill these puffs with Crème Pâtissière, or pastry cream:

In a 3-quart mixing bowl, beat
One cup of granulated white sugar into
6 egg yolks. Continue beating until the mixture is pale yellow.
Add one half cup of full-fat milk.
Beat in one cup of sifted white all-purpose flour. Mix this very vigorously until the small lumps of egg-yolk disappear into the flour and sugar.

Boil 4 cups of full-fat milk. Add it gradually, in a small stream, to the egg and flour mixture, while stirring. Pour the mass into a heavy 6-quart saucepan and set the stove burner on medium high heat. Stir with a wire-whisk or an electric mixer, careful to include the mixture at bottom of pot. Scrape the bottom of the pot with a spatula at intervals. When this reaches the boiling-point, turn down the heat to low, continue to beat for 2 to 3 minutes in order to cook the flour thoroughly. Don't let the custard at the bottom of the pot get scorched.

Remove from heat, and incorporate one tablespoon of butter and one teaspoon of vanilla.

Choux à La Crème

When the crème patissière is cool enough, use it to fill choux. Dust choux with powdered sugar, drizzle with melted chocolate or with hot caramel sauce.

Crème patissière will keep in the refrigerator for a week, or may be frozen.

Petits Choux au Fromage

To make these savoury cheese puffs: omit the sugar, add a half-teaspoon of cayenne pepper, and add a cup of grated Swiss or Parmesan cheese to the warm pâte à choux. Bake at 425*F for about twenty minutes or until golden brown. Pierce to release steam from each cheese-puff.

~~Copyright M-J de Mesterton, 2008

Here is my original recipe for a cold summer soup:

Gazpacho Verde

Two large yellow sweet peppers (capsicums)

Two large cucumbers

Two ripe avocados

One 6-ounce can of Herdez Salsa Picante Verde (or any hot, green chile sauce if Herdez is unavailable)

One cup of water

One tablespoon of lime juice (or lemon, in Europe)

Seasoning salt of your choice

Blend all of the above ingredients till very smooth. Pour into tureen and chill. Yield: four large bowls of cold soup. Garnish with a spoonful of sour cream or crême fraîche. 

Copyright M-J de Mesterton 2006

Party Nuts

   
 
M-J's Roasted New Mexican Chile Almonds
 
Soak one pound (16 ounces) of raw almonds in brine (I use health-promoting Himalayan salt) and red chile powder (New Mexican is the best). A teaspoon of sugar or honey added to the brine will ensure that the mixture adheres to the nuts. I like to use agave nectar when it is available. After ten minutes, drain them and spread almonds out on a baking sheet. Reserve the chile/salt liquid. Roast in medium-hot oven for half an hour. Test for crunchiness only when completely cooled. If they are not tasty or crunchy enough for your taste, repeat the process by just dredging the almonds in the reserved liquid, then bake again for ten to twenty minutes, being careful not to burn the nuts. Almonds ought not to be eaten raw, as they contain a small amount of cyanide until they are roasted. A three-pound bag of Diamond Raw Almonds from California is available at Sam's Club for about ten dollars. These roasted nuts are an excellent party offering.~~Copyright M-J de Mesterton 2007
 

China, Porcelain and Other Elegant Crockery

 
 One brand of china, in as many patterns as you like, will do. Pictured here: Noritake, Japan, 1910-1955. Photo copyright M-J de Mesterton, 2008
.

 

 Next: a Collection of Japanese-Inspired Brown Drip Pottery

 

Photo Copyright M-J de Mesterton 2008

 

The Elegant, Do-It Yourself Party



Dessert Table

All Photos Copyright M-J de Mesterton, 2007




All Photos Copyright M-J de Mesterton 2007
 
For an affordable yet elegant drinks party, make all the canapés yourself and arrange on your prettiest plates and platters, spreading them around a central table. Place stacks of small plates and cocktail napkins conveniently among the offerings. The hostess (wife) can carry platters around to guests often during the party, ensuring the land-locked chatters an opportunity to eat. Wine and soft drinks are sufficient, if you'd like to keep the drink-dispensing simple (cocktails are potent and complicated to mix; the price of a DWI being exorbitant, one wants reasonably sober guests leaving one's domicile...). The husband is in-charge of filling and refilling drinks. Walking about the rooms with a wine bottle to give refills on the spot is a good idea. The wife can monitor the food table to keep it neat, as well as make the rounds talking and relieving guests of empties. This sort of drinks party provides people with enough nourishment to make dinner unnecessary. Some components of your savoury items can be prepared in the two days preceding the event. Offer a platter of brownies or cookies for those who prefer sweets. Clean-up is easy. A team effort of husband and wife is ideal, but, coordination being essential, any two people who work well in tandem will serve.
 
Food Quantities and Conservation
 
Provide an average of four canapes in each category per-person.  Not every guest will partake of every offering, so this scheme usually works well. In the case of leftover items like angels-on-horseback (bacon wrapped around a water chestnut) and broiled), they are excellent re-heated the next day. Coat your appetizer shells with unsalted butter on the inside before filling them (unsalted butter has less moisture in it.) Butter will act as an insulator against moisture, ensuring that the canapes will not become soft from their contents, and will also be edible the next day. When creating platforms for your canapes, save the extra bread trimmings in a freezer-bag, and use them later for breadcrumbs or in a Swedish meatball recipe.
 
For Those Who Desire Household Help for the Party
Purchase a server's uniform (black vest, black bow tie, white shirt, optional white gloves) in a size large, so that it may be worn by whomever you find to help, then washed, stored and re-used on the next occasion.
 
Hospitality for Your Guests' Coats
 
Instead of having your friends throw their coats on a bed or sofa, empty your coat closets and chuck your own coats onto the bed instead. This way, your guests have the dignity of  hanging their coats in  an orderly fashion, and of locating them easily for a smooth exit. This is an elegant, kind way to make your company comfortable, and all it requires is a bit of elbow grease. Emptying your closet for a couple of days just might facilitate a welcome closet re-organization, which is a  great mood-elevator.
 

Elegant Survival Wines

Photo of Torres Malena Garnacha bottle copyright M-J de Mesterton

Elegant Survival's November 2008 Wine of the Month, Torres Malena garnacha 2006, Produced by the Torres Family of Spain 

Torres Malena 2006: Burgundy-Colored Table Wine, Excellent with Beef

Torres Malena Garnacha 2006: It's so good, and my recommendation got so many hits, that it is not only Elegant Survival's Wine of the Month for December 2007 , but for January 2008 as well.

 

 

Le Pigeoulet en Provence: a Reasonably-Priced Red Wine from Southern France's Vaucluse Region

Photo Copyright M-J de Mesterton, 2007

 

Elegant Survival's Wine of the Month for September, 2007:

Perrin & Fils Vinsobres Les Cornuds, Côtes du Rhône: popular for decades in Orange, France

(Someone stole my original photograph)

 

Saturday, July 12, 2008

Elegant Survival's Summer Wine Recommendation: Penascal of Spain

 

Photo copyright M-J de Mesterton,  2008--click image for close-up.
Penascal Tempranillo Red Wine, 2005
Wine of Spain

Usually available in the U.S. for 5.99 per bottle. Tempranillo is the emblematic Spanish grape, and these are grown in the Castillo y León region of northern Spain. Hints of cherry, blackberry, and strong minerality combined with spicy leather and pepper notes make this a full-bodied red wine, yet it is not heavy on the palate. Its tannins are smooth, with a hint of oak. In 2005 and 2006, we served Penascal Tempranillo Red Wine 2003. It was always popular with our guests, and so is Penascal Tempranillo 2005. With the price of nearly everything going up, you need to have a good wine (and a good whine), at a low price.
M-J de Mesterton, 2008


M-J's Elegant Birthday Cake

 

Photo Copyright M-J de Mesterton 2008: Click to Enlarge




White Cake with Seven-Minute Icing

M-J's White Cake


This is a true white cake, which is why I use shortening instead of butter, and egg whites instead of whole eggs. Your egg yolks may be used for custard or creme patissiere.

3/4 cup of white vegetable shortening
1 1/2 cups of granulated white sugar
2 cups of bleached, plain all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons of aluminum-free baking powder
1/4 teaspoon of salt
6 large egg whites (3/4 cup)
1 cup of buttermilk
or
regular milk plus 1 teaspoon of white vinegar if you don't have buttermilk
Set your oven's rack at the middle level, and preheat it to 350* Fahrenheit.

Butter the bottom of two 9-inch round cake pans. Line bottoms of pans with waxed paper, which you can make by tracing the bottom of pan onto waxed paper with a pencil and then cutting it out with scissors. You can cut out two at a time on layers of paper.

In a large bowl, cream the vegetable shortening and sugar together for about 3 minutes, beating until light and fluffy. I use an electric, hand-held mixer at high speed. Stir together flour, baking powder and salt. Set aside. Combine egg whites, milk and vanilla extract. Add 1/3 of the flour mixture to the creamed shortening, then add half of the milk mixture. Continue to alternate, beginning and ending with flour mixture. Fold this together with a rubber spatula, so that when you begin using the mixer, the flour doesn't fly around the kitchen. Beat until smooth, for about one minute. Stop and scrape the bowl with a rubber spatula. Beat your cake batter again for another minute.

Pour the batter into your wax-papered pans. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center emerges clean.

Cool cake-pans on a rack for 10 minutes, remove cake layers, remove waxed paper and allow the two cake layers to cool completely before frosting. This cooling takes about forty-five minutes. If you frost the cake while it is still warm, your icing will run. This white cake is good with traditional buttercream frosting, coconut, or royal icing. You will frost the top of one cake layer, put the other layer on top of that, and continue icing the whole assembled cake.

~~Copyright M-J de Mesterton 2008

 


Seven-Minute Icing Recipe

Ingredients

Two raw egg-whites
1-1/2 cups of powdered (confectioner's) sugar
5 Tbsp water
A dash of salt
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
or
1-1/2 teaspoon of light corn syrup
1 teaspoon of vanilla extract

Preparation

Combine the egg whites, sugar, water, cream of tartar, and corn syrup in the top of a double boiler, or in a heat-proof mixing bowl, and mix until thoroughly blended. Place the top portion of the double-boiler, or the mixing bowl, over rapidly boiling water and beat with an electric hand mixer for 7 minutes, or longer at high altitudes, until stiff peaks form. Add the vanilla and continue beating for another minute. Use the frosting before it hardens.

M-J with Self-Made Birthday Cake, October 2008 (photo copyright Elegant Survival 2007)

A Delicious Swedish Hamburger

Biff à La Lindström


This is said to have been originated by Adolf Henrik Lindström, the expedition cook for South Pole explorer Roald Amundsen. It is also said to have been created by Henrik Lindström, a Swede living in St. Petersburg, Russia (that was not unusual in the previous two centuries; my cousin, Baron Michel de Taube, noted for writing a history of the Knights of Malta, was a jurisdoctor at the university there). Whoever invented this tasty dish had a well-stocked pantry, complete with pickled beets and capers. These are kitchen essentials for which there are many uses. Pickled beets come in both cans and jars. Capers are like little peas that grow on vines; the ones packed in small glasses or jars are usually tiny and briny. They're good on hors d'oeuvres and with salmon. I received a jar of large capers from an Italian girlfriend, which I  chopped into smaller pieces for this hamburger dish. There are many versions of Biff à La Lindström available today, and some omit the cream. That's a calorie-saving, modern idea, of which I wouldn't dream!
1 pound ground beef
2 egg yolks
1/2 cup cold mashed potatoes*
3/4 cup of whipping cream (in the absence of this, you may substitute 3 tablespoons of sour cream or crême fraiche, thinned with 1/4 cup of milk)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/4 cup minced pickled beets
i minced onion
2 tablespoons capers

Mix beef, egg, potatoes, salt and pepper. Stir in remaining ingredients. Shape mixture into 8 patties, each about 1/2 inch thick.
Fry the beef patties (my grandmother would call them "meatballs", whether they were flat or round) in butter until crispy on each side.
Top each patty with fried egg if desired.
Yields 4 servings.
*Variation: omit the mashed potatoes from the meatball mixture, and serve them on the side.

Spinach, the Superfood

 

Recipe
M-J's Superfood Spinach Salad

Wash a pound of spinach; baby leaves are preferable. Dry them with a towel or a salad-spinning device. Chop the leaves into bite-sized pieces with a French chef's knife. Knife-tip: if you use your knife to clear spinach off of cutting board, turn it to the dull side, or, like I did long ago before I realized what I was doing, you will dull the blade.

Shred a cup of Parmesan cheese.

Cut a few red, ripe plum tomatoes into quarters. Alternatively, cut sun-dried tomatoes into quarters--the ones packed in oil are already soft enough to eat, but the completely dry ones are best reconstituted in boiling water.

Sauté a cup of walnuts in a half-cup of olive oil. Crush the walnuts with a potato masher to break them up into smaller bits and bring out their flavor. Salt and pepper the nuts and oil to your taste. I use Himalayan salt and cayenne pepper, both of which are health-promoting elements. After the walnuts, rich in omega-3 fatty acids, are toasted to your liking, keep the olive oil/walnut mixture hot.

Pour the hot olive oil/walnuts into the spinach and toss. Throw-in the tomatoes. Add the Parmesan cheese. Dress with balsamic vinegar and more olive oil if necessary. The hot olive oil and walnuts have already done their job of wilting the spinach leaves slightly.

Spinach, walnuts, and tomatoes are on the popular lists of "superfoods". Be sure to click on the link up above to read about the wonders of spinach, in case you're wondering why anyone would bother to eat the vegetable! My husband didn't like spinach until he had my Superfood Spinach Salad.

~~Article copyright M-J de Mesterton, June 3rd, 2008
Which Means You May Link to M-J's Recipe, but Not Copy It. Thank You.

Salvaging Overcooked Pasta

Friday, April 11, 2007

Don't Waste Overcooked Pasta--You May Still Use It!


Photo copyright M-J de Mesterton 2008: click to enlarge
How to Salvage Overcooked Pasta

Instead of dumping your overcooked pasta--the result of an emergency elsewhere while you should be watching the pot--drain it well and sauté it in butter, then add grated cheese if you wish. It will have a toasted flavor and stiffen up a bit if you brown it as shown. Sautéed in butter or olive oil, overcooked spaghetti or pasta can have a nice texture. You may even add the sauce of your choice after it is browned. A little butter won't kill you, but an Italian, faced with mushy pasta, might!

Addendum: the notion of sautéeing pasta is not anathema in Italy. Witness the many recipes for  spaghetti fritatte. Fritatta/e means "fried".

Elegant Egg Dishes

 

 An old friend of mine prepared the following dish for me in the 1970s:

Eggs Vienna


Poach eggs in hot milk. Prepare strips of "streaky bacon" (American bacon, that is)

Toast slices of white bread.

Assemble in shallow soup bowls (you will have reserved your HOT MILK), laying in the buttered toast slice first, then the bacon, and then the poached eggs. Cover with hot milk. Grind pepper over the assemblage, and eat immediately. Serve with soup-spoons, knives and forks.

~~M-J

More Elegant Recipes


Here is my recipe for elegant egg nog, a winter holiday tradition (Anchor Hocking 16-Ounce Mug from Wal-Mart for about $2.00):
 


Christmas Egg Nog

Equipment: a blender, a medium-size mixing bowl, a rotary mixer, and a freezer-safe jug

Ingredients

Four eggs, separated

One cup of heavy cream, whipped until stiff

One half-cup of powdered sugar

One cup of milk

One half-teaspoon of nutmeg

Two tablespoons of rum extract

One teaspoon of vanilla

Two jiggers of brandy

Whip the egg-whites until stiff, incorporating the powdered sugar into them as you beat.

Pour the milk into the blender, together with the four egg-yolks and mix them.

With a spatula, slip the beaten egg-whites into the blender. Do the same with the cream.

Add the nutmeg and blend for a minute.

Pour this mixture into a freezer-safe jug and store in your freezer until very cold.

Serve the egg nog in festive glasses. Distribute the foam on top of each, and sprinkle with nutmeg. Adding additional whipped cream on top, or stiffening the drink with more liquor, is optional.

Makes 1.25 litres.
Update: Alton Brown used these "Elegant Survival Mugs" on one of his holiday season shows this year, 2009
 
Copyright M-J de Mesterton, 2007


Cooked Egg Nog  

 

1/2 c. sugar
3 egg yolks
1/2 tsp. salt
4 c. whole milk
Dash salt
3 egg whites
1/4 c. sugar
1/2 tsp. vanilla
One half-cup of rum

 

This egg nog may be safer than ones in which raw eggs are used. Combine 1/2 cup sugar, 3 egg yolks, 1/2 teaspoon of salt and 4 cups of milk. Cook this in a double-boiler, stirring constantly, until the mixture comes to a gentle rolling boil. Remove the pot from heat.

Beat egg whites with a dash of salt until they form stiff peaks. Add 1/4 cup of sugar and vanilla; beat well. Pour egg white mixture into the cooked mixture and with a hand beater beat until thoroughly mixed. Fold in the rum. Chill and serve in glass mugs. Sprinkle with nutmeg if desired.

Serves 6-8.




Carrot Vichyssoise, as Created by Chef Albert Stockli of New York's Four Seasons Hotel, Circa 1960

2 cups of peeled and diced white potatoes

1 leek, white part only, sliced thinly

1 1/4 cups sliced carrots 3 cups chicken stock (broth)--if you are vegetarian, vegetable broth is a suitable substitute

1 teaspoon salt

A dash of white pepper

1 cup of heavy whipping-cream

Clean the leek carefully, as garden soil can collect between the tightly layered sections. Slice the white portion only.

In a large soup pot over medium heat, add the potatoes, one sliced leek, carrots, and chicken stock. Bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer this for 25 to 30 minutes or until vegetables are tender. Let it cool. In an electric blender, purée half the vegetables and liquid at thirty seconds, then pour into a large bowl. Repeat process with second half of the soup. Chill the carrot Vichyssoise, and stir in the cream, pepper and salt before serving. Serve in 4 chilled bowls. Consider a contrasting garnish of finely chopped parsley or chives. Chef Stockli used shredded carrot.

 

M-J's Swedish Flax Bread

 

Bread Cooling (all photos copyright M-J de Mesterton, 2007)






(all photos copyright M-J de Mesterton, 2007)
 
Swedish Flax/Rye Bread

This is my own recipe. You won’t find this bread outside of Sweden, unless you are on an SAS flight.
Four cups of hot water, to which a half-cup of buttermilk has been added
Two tablespoons of yeast
One third-cup of molasses (substitute: dark corn syrup)
Two tablespoons of salt
Two cups of rye flour
Half cup of ground flaxseed
White flour–amounts vary, but it will be about  six cups (the amount of flour needed depends upon the climate, the altitude, and the phase of the moon)
Dissolve the yeast in warm water/buttermilk mixture. Add the molasses and some of the two flours–enough to make a sponge. After it has bubbled up, add salt and the rest of the flour except for one cup. Let the dough rest for fifteen minutes. Keep adding more white flour as needed until the dough no longer sticks to the surface. Knead dough for eight minutes. Form into a ball, set into a buttered bowl, cover lightly with waxed paper or a tea-towel, and let rise until it is double the size. Punch down the bulk, kneading it again for a minute.  Shape the dough into loaves, dust pans with cornmeal or ground flaxseed, let rise again until nearly double in size, then bake for one hour at 350* (moderately hot oven). This recipe will yield two slicing loaves and two baguettes.  — Copyright M-J de Mesterton, 25th August 2007
 
A Recipe from Southern France, Written by M-J de Mesterton
Pogne de Romans
 
 Pogne de Romans Made by M-J de Mesterton, Photo Copyright 2009

POGNE DE ROMANS

Yield: Two Round Loaves

 INGREDIENTS

The Starter
3 teaspoons of dry yeast

3/4 cup of warm water (105-115 degrees Fahrenheit.)

One teaspoon of sugar or honey

1 1/2 cups of flour


The Dough
7 cups of unbleached white flour
6 eggs, at room temperature
1 cup of sugar
2 teaspoons of water
2 teaspoons of salt
1/4 cup of orange flower water 

M-J's Note: Orange Flower Water, brand "A. Monteux", made in the Alps of France by Vallauris, is available on the internet at http://www.restockit.com

 8 ounces (1/2 pound) of soft, salted butter 


The Finishing Glaze 
1 egg
1 teaspoon of milk

Optional: white pearl-sugar

Cut two 16 inch round parchment or wax-paper discs to fit under each pogne; butter their top surfaces. Place the buttered discs on a large, rectangular baking sheet.

 In a small bowl, dissolve the three teaspoons of yeast in ½ cup of warm water. Add one teaspoon of sugar.
Stir in the cup of flour, creating soft dough. Let this dough rise in a covered bowl at room temperature (70-75 F) until it is double in size. On a counter or other solid work-surface, form a well within 1 and ½ cups of flour. Break 4 eggs into its center. Bring the flour and eggs together to form a mass, then lift it into a big mixing bowl. Beat for 2 to 3 minutes at medium speed with an electric mixer.  This will make a smooth, light yellow batter. Incorporate the salt and orange flower water into this mixture.
Gradually add your softened butter while continuing to beat the batter. When all the butter has been stirred in, add two more eggs and the one cup of sugar, beating at medium speed. Knead the remaining 4 ½ cups flour into the mixture, about a cup at the time, until it becomes soft and elastic dough. You may need extra flour, depending on the size of your eggs, the weather, and the phase of the moon, so keep a jug of flour at-hand. Form this dough into a ball when it has ceased to be sticky, then put it into a large bowl and cover it with plastic wrap, while you prepare to add the starter.  Clean and dry your work-surface, then dust it with flour.  

It is now time to add the starter, which has developed and grown to twice its original size, to the big ball of dough. Spread the yellow dough onto your work-surface and flatten it. Empty the starter dough onto this, patting and covering it, and then fold the two lots together. Knead the starter into the yellow dough until it is completely incorporated. Place the new dough in a large, clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and leave at room temperature until it is doubled in bulk. Empty your risen dough onto your work-surface.
Divide it into 2 balls. Flatten them into rounds of about 8 inches in diameter.
Open a 4-inch diameter hole in the middle of each pogne-loaf. Place them atop their buttered discs on the baking sheet. Cover the two pognes with wax paper or parchment, and let them rise at room temperature for 2 ½ hours. Brush the pognes with your prepared glaze (one teaspoon of milk beaten into one egg). Optional: press some pearl sugar (I use Swedish pärlsocker) onto the glaze. With a sharp knife that has been dipped into cold water, make 3 connecting cuts along the top of each pogne, forming a triangle.

Bake at 350 degrees Fahrenheit until you see a deep brown colour on the shiny crust of your two pognes de Romans. 
 
Copyright M-J de Mesterton, 2006 


Elegant Survival Wine

Photo Copyright M-J de Mesterton 2007: Click to Enlarge Image

Torres Malena

Torres Malena Garnacha 2005 and 2006 (grenache: the grapes which are abundant in Provence*)

From (Spain) Catalunya: a red wine that is purple in color, with a sweet, fragrant bouquet featuring mostly plum and strawberry but also a touch of rusticity. Bold and full of cherry-cola flavors, while the feel is luxurious and proper. As the label declares, Malena Garnacha is light on the tannins. A very nice wine from Torres; great value--priced anywhere between six and ten dollars US. Available at Sam's Club, and when you buy it by the case, it happens to be a gorgeous wooden box.

We served this wine at a recent party, and it was a hit. Torres Malena Garnacha complements beef dishes, and anything else you are serving, including fowl.
Torres Malena Garnacha 2006 can be served room temperature, or heated for a hot spiced wine or glögg in winter.

*Garnacha is the Spanish name for the grenache noir grape. This grape is said to be originally Spanish, and is grown throughout Spain and southern France. Garnacha is particularly important in Rioja where it is blended into the Tempranillo, and in Priorat where it is the main varietal grape in world-class red wines.

 

Saturday, March 8, 2008

The Original Sacher Torte

History

.

M-J's Elegant Tri-Tip Roast

Tri-Tip Roast with Chunky Mirepoix, Copyright M-J de Mesterton 2008
Tri-Tip Roast with Chunky Mirepoix, Photo Copyright M-J de Mesterton 2008
Tri-Tip Pot Roast with Chunky Mirepois
 
Marinate a tri-tip roast in red or port wine, Worcestershire sauce, coarsely ground black pepper, seasoning salt, and a little bit of  olive, peanut or corn oil. After a few hours, dry the roast and reserve the remaining marinade for sauce. Dust the meat with salt and pepper. This absorbs the external moisture to help in searing the roast. In a Dutch Oven, or a big, heavy pot, melt a half-stick of butter on high heat, when the butter begins to brown, lower the meat into the pot. Brown it on all sides, Add coarsely chopped onion, celery, carrots (miniature peeled carrots are perfect for this dish), and some quartered potatoes. Stir these vegetables in the pot around the roast, cooking them  until their edges are brown, and then add one or two cups of beef broth (depending upon the size of your roast)  mixed with the marinade. Stir the vegetables again, let the liquid come to a boil, then lower the heat to simmering and and cover the pot. Cook to your desired degree. I cook mine about one hour, because we like it well-done. For company, you may want to cook it medium-well, leaving the middle pink. Remove the meat and vegetables. I make gravy from what is remaining in the pot. After the meat has cooled a bit, I slice it very thinly with a very sharp Japanese ceramic knife. You can put the sliced beef on a platter, on top of a shallow pool of the gravy. Trim the beef by placing vegetables around it. If you have a warming tray, set your platter on it to keep the dish warm. Alternatively, you may arrange the meat and vegetables in a buffet-handled pan and reheat on the stove just before serving.

Recipe Copyright M-J de Mesterton 2008

Baking Cakes and Bread

September 7, 2007


Baking Baguettes for a Party: Photo Copyright M-J de M., 2006

M-J's plain vanilla cake baked in a tube-pan, coated with royal icing and dripped with chocolate:

 

.. Recipes by M-J de Mesterton

Apple Pie with Appliqués, French Style

Using the recipe for M-J's Elegant Apple Pie, one may cut out shapes of dough and apply them to the top of the pie.

 Brush the area with egg glaze, then press appliqué onto the pie.

 Copyright Photo and Pie by M-J de Mesterton, 2009

M-J's Cream-Filled Almond Cake

 M-J's Filled Almond Cake, Photo Copyright M-J de Mesterton 2009

M-J’s Cream-Filled Almond Cake

1 1/3 cups of granulated white sugar

3/4 cup of raw almonds, finely ground

One tablespoon of almond butter or paste

4 ounces (one stick) of butter, at room temperature

6 large egg whites, at room temperature (reserve egg yolks in a separate bowl for crème pâtissière cake-filling)

½ cup of cream (regular or heavy)

1 tablespoon of vanilla extract

1 cup of all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon of baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees and position a rack in the middle. Line the bottoms of two 9-inch cake pans with waxed or parchment paper, or butter the pans and dust them with flour.

2. Beat together the sugar and almonds, the tablespoon of vanilla and tablespoon of almond butter until they are well-integrated.

3. Add the room-temperature butter and beat for a few minutes until light and fluffy. Whip the egg-whites with the ¼ teaspoon of salt, and fold them into the almond and butter mixture when they are white. The egg-whites do not have to be very stiff for this batter.

4. Mix together the flour and baking powder with a fork. Gently beat this mixture into the batter.

5. Fill up halfway the two prepared 9” round cake pans. Bake at 350* for about 40 minutes. Cool the cake layers and then release from pans.

Make crème pâtissière with the egg-yolks (recipe follows), and when it is cooled, top one layer of cake with it and place the other layer on top of it. Dust the assembled layer-cake with powdered sugar.

~~Recipe Copyright M-J de Mesterton 2009 


Crème Pâtissière, or pastry cream:

In a 3-quart mixing bowl, beat
One cup of granulated white sugar into
6 egg yolks. Continue beating until the mixture is pale yellow.
Add one half cup of full-fat milk.
Beat in one cup of sifted white all-purpose flour. Mix this very vigorously until the small lumps of egg-yolk disappear into the flour and sugar.

Boil 4 cups of full-fat milk. Add it gradually, in a small stream, to the egg and flour mixture, while stirring. Pour the mass into a heavy 6-quart saucepan and set the stove burner on medium high heat. Stir with a wire-whisk or an electric mixer, careful to include the mixture at bottom of pot. Scrape the bottom of the pot with a spatula at intervals. When this reaches the boiling-point, turn down the heat to low, continue to beat for 2 to 3 minutes in order to cook the flour thoroughly. Don't let the custard at the bottom of the pot get scorched.

Remove from heat, and incorporate one tablespoon of butter and one teaspoon of vanilla.
 

~~Recipe Copyright M-J de Mesterton 2008

M-J's Elegant Walnut Shortbread

M-J’s Elegant Walnut Shortbread Cookies

M-J's Walnut Shortbread Cookies

M-J's Walnut Shortbread Cookies

Ingredients

One half-pound of butter (two sticks)

Two and a half cups of flour

One cup of powdered sugar

One third-cup of granulated sugar

One half-teaspoon of salt

One third cup of buttermilk or regular milk

One teaspoon of vanilla (imitation vanilla is just as good as the real thing)

One cup of ground walnuts (I use a food-processor)

Method

Soften butter till just before melting point. Add and incorporate rest of ingredients. Form small balls of dough, set them on a cookie sheet, and flatten with a fork, or any tool you prefer which will put a texture on top of the cookies. A metal cookie- baller, much like a meat or melon-baller, could be useful for forming the cookies. Bake at 350* Fahrenheit for  half an hour.

~~Copyright M-J de  Mesterton, Elegant Survival 2009~~

Transporting Cookies as a Gift

M-J Makes a Waxed-Paper Gift Bag for Cookies and Biscuits

M-J Makes a Waxed-Paper Gift Bag for Cookies and Biscuits, Using an Old Iron and Pinking Shears

Wonderful Walnut Torte

Original Recipe and Photo Copyright M-J de Mesterton, 2006
 

Low-Carbohydrate
 
Walnut Torte

6 Egg whites, brought to room temperature and whipped until stiff (add a sprinkling of salt to accelerate action; also, egg whites stiffen more swiftly in a copper bowl)

One cup of walnuts, shelled and ground (I grind them in a blender on "pulse" setting)
 
Two tablespoons of flour  (wheat, white or soy)

One tablespoon of butter, softened (substitute one tablespoon of coconut oil if desired)
 
One-fourth cup of heavy dairy cream or sour cream

One teaspoon of aluminum-free baking powder (in the absence of this, use a teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda

One half-teaspoon of Himalayan (or regular) Salt (see my health page for the most economical source)

Ten packets of Splenda sugar-substitute

One tablespoon of vanilla

One tablespoon of dark corn syrup or treacle. In the absence of this, use a tbs. of brown sugar.

Fold ingredients together to create a batter, being careful not to overwork it.

Grease a pie-pan with manteca, shortening, lard or butter. Pre-heat oven to moderate high (350*F or its equivalent). Pour batter into pan, and bake for about thirty minutes. Cake will have turned from a pale batter to a warm medium brown. This torte is excellent with coffee as-is, or topped with whipped cream for dessert. TIP: You can serve pieces of this cake to guests who love sweets. Just pierce the cake and pour maple syrup over it. Then what you will have is a maple-walnut torte.
You can convert my recipe into a "low-fat, high-sugar" torte by eliminating the Splenda and adding instead one cup of sugar (if you like, you can use brown sugar and skip the treacle) and one tablespoon of flour. Omit the cream and one tablespoon of butter. Walnut torte is high in protein and omega-3 fatty acids, which are beneficial to your health.
Copyright M-J de Mesterton,  June 2007

Photo Copyright M-J de Mesterton 2006

Food Safety; Keeping Food Costs Low

Don't buy prepared foods at the supermarket. Instead of spending a lot on dubiously produced dishes, you are better off spending twenty minutes cooking, and will be in control of what goes into your dishes, as well as of its quality and cleanliness. Many expensive restaurants get demerits from their respective municipal health departments. Some of them are shut down for infractions. Cooks at restaurants are often carriers of hepatitis and other ills. Roaches, mice, rats and flies get into the food supply in restaurants, and carry disease. Imagine, then, the food-preparation area in the back room of a supermarket*, with various non-professional employees having a hand (perhaps dirty hands) in making your food. I once bought half a watermelon from a fancy supermarket in Princeton, New Jersey. When I got it home, I noticed that they had carelessly cut it in half while it had a coating of dirt and no doubt manure on its outside--their knife must have gone right through that hazardous material, causing the interior of the melon to be contaminated. I had to return the offending item to that store, and talk to a callous store manager. His lack of proper response brought me to the health department at Princeton Borough Hall, where I was met with more complacency. No one cares what goes into your food like you do. Think of how infrequently supermarkets are inspected. Protect yourself and save money by buying your own ingredients, preferably from factories with standards.

With these ideas in mind, I've been making my own bread for years. It's not terribly time-consuming; it is enjoyable watching it rise and when you bake it, there's a wonderful aroma. A little-recognized benefit is the upper body exercise you get during the kneading process!

Though wheat prices have soared, Trader Joe's has one-pound bags of pasta from Italy for about $1.25 each. You can buy pasta in bulk at Costco and Sam's Club, and lower-priced cheese to grate on top of it. Buy a few pounds of low-priced hamburger, and separate it into meal-sized lots in freezer-bags. Scramble hamburger in a pan, perhaps with an onion and some diced green or red pepper, and serve it with cooked pasta. Rotini from Trader Joe's is an excellent choice. Cover with your favorite grated cheese. If you are on a tight schedule, drained and buttered pasta can be put into freezer-bags for eating during your busy week. It doesn't take much time to thaw. The same goes for rice. Just don't overcook either of those grains. They can be improved after thawing by sautéeing in butter or oil. If you live in an area that has flour mites and/or mice, you ought to store your large stock of pasta in airtight, glass or thick plastic containers.

Here is a classic white sauce to enhance pasta dishes. It is used in northern Italian lasagne (and is called balsamello in Italy) and Greek pastitsio, as well as many French dishes.

Sauce Béchamel was named for King Louis XIV's cook, Louis de Béchamiel.

Sauce Béchamel

4 tablespoons of butter
4 tablespoons of flour
1 cup of milk
One half teaspoon of salt
Cayenne or white pepper

Optional: one small onion, minced

Melt the butter in a saucepan and, if using the onion, sauté it until soft but not browned. Add the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for three minutes. Heat the milk and add it slowly to the mixture, stirring it until thick and smooth. Cook for a further five minutes. Yield: one cup of sauce. This béchamel sauce many be thinned while still hot, if desired, with the addition of more milk.

Tip: Stock up on nonfat dry milk. It is suitable for use in any recipe calling for milk, and if you mix it more thickly than recommended, it will have the consistency of whole milk. I use it for the sauce béchamel sometimes, and when making pommes de terre dauphinoise. I rely on powdered milk, because my husband and I are childless adults who rarely have fresh milk on hand, and resist going to the market.

As a child, my household had split pea soup on Thursdays in the Swedish tradition. Sometimes, following that same inherited tradition, we even had pancakes or waffles for Thursday supper. Split pea soup is delicious and full of protein. Served with either toast or grilled cheese sandwiches, it makes such a hearty supper or luncheon that one doesn't miss a meat course. Split peas are still under a dollar per pound.

In Sweden, yellow split peas are used for ärtsoppa, as well as a ham hock. Those ingredients are difficult to find. What follows is a much simpler recipe. Vegetarians may omit the ham or bacon.

Starting the Soup after Sautéeing the Bacon and Vegetables

Photo Copyright Elegant Survival 2008
Split Pea Soup

Two tablespoons of butter

1 or 2 ounces of chopped raw bacon or cooked ham (small "smokies" sausages, cut in tiny bits, also work well)

1 lb. of split peas, any color

One medium onion

Three stalks of celery, finely diced

One or two carrots, finely diced (optional)

1 teaspoon of thyme, savoury or herbes de Provence

Two quarts of water

Salt and pepper to taste. I use Himalayan crystal salt.

Sauté the bacon and onion in the butter. Add diced celery and carrots, cooking the mixture for five minutes. Make sure all of the bacon is crisp, or you'll have blobs of fat floating in the soup (they don't brown once the water has been added). Pour in the water and split peas. Bring to a boil, and stir well, Simmer for two hours and stir often. Add water as necessary. This is good prepared in a crock-pot. Double the recipe to freeze portions of your split pea soup for the future.

I'll be writing more tips on how to save on the cost of eating. Stay tuned.

*UPDATE: a couple of hours after writing this, my husband was talking to the fellow who alters his clothes, and, as always, asked him how he is. The tailor ate nothing but two pieces of supermarket fried chicken last Monday (eight days ago), got food poisoning from it, and is still not 100% well. It could be that the preparer of the fried chicken handled some of it while it was still uncooked, and without washing, handled the cooked product, contaminating it with salmonella. This is the risk one takes at such places. People aren't trained properly, and just don't care.
Copyright M-J de Mesterton, March 2008

M-J's Potage de Celeri

Wash thoroughly a whole head of celery, by cutting the bottom off and bathing the stalks in a sinkful of water. With French chef’s knife, chop finely. Include the celery leaves, which are packed with flavour. In a large pot, melt two tablespoons of butter. Put the chopped celery in, and add a teaspooon of salt, one half-teaspoon of cumin, and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Saute until bright green and almost soft. Stir in a tablespoon of cornstarch (cornflour), which has seven grams of carbs. Saute for two more minutes, and then add one cup of cream and two cups of water. Simmer for ten minutes. Serves six. This soup is a good accompaniment to croques monsieurs for luncheon.

~~Copyright M-J de Mesterton, February 2007

 

In Praise of the Potato

High Praise for the Lowly Potato

Potatoes: the much-maligned tubers aren't guilty of fattening us. The added fats in potato-preparation are the culprits. Spuds contain a "resistant starch" that aids in burning body-fat. This humble vegetable that grows low on the ground is high in nutrients.

A potato supplies more potassium per ounce than a banana. Potassium helps to regulate blood-pressure and blood-sugar. Potatoes also contain vitamin C, B-6 and about 60 anti-oxidants.

M-J's Recipe for Golden Brown Potatoes

Peel and cut into quarters or eighths, as many potatoes as you think you need for dinner. The cut potatoes should resemble chunks or nuggets. One potato per person is a safe bet; the leftovers can be re-heated and eaten the next day.

Boil water in a pot, with salt or chicken bouillon to your taste. Add the potato chunks and boil them for twenty minutes. Drain potatoes and then sauté them in butter or the fat of your choice until brown. Alternatively, you may coat the potatoes in lemon, olive oil and salt, then bake them on a cookie sheet until brown. A good way to evenly distribute the coating is to put the potatoes, oil and seasoning in a Zip-Lock bag and shake gently, being careful not to break the potato chunks.
Baked or sautéed, these potatoes are soft on the inside, and crispy on the outside.
~~Copyright M-J de Mesterton, 2008

The Health-Promoting Hot Pepper

Capsicums, chiles, chile peppers, peppers--all are names for a wonderfully health-promoting food that is high in vitamins.

 Red Chile Oil 

I like to eat brown rice with stir-fried vegetables, and I dress up that dish with red chile oil. Instead of using vegetable or peanut oil, I use organic coconut oil to make my own, as it contains more-beneficial fatty acids. 

 Take a handful of dried, red chiles and break them into pieces. Wear gloves while doing this, because you may accidentally touch your face or eyes. Put these into a blender with some soy sauce and a lot of coconut oil, softened or liquefied.  Other additions, optionally, are peanuts, sesame seeds, or almonds. Blend the combined ingredients until you have something resembling Szechuan hot chile oil. Your home-made hot chile oil will be tastier, safer and better than the imported versions.


M-J's Red Chile Oil, Photo Copyright July 2008 

Inexpensive, Elegant Brut ("Champagne") from Spain



Cristalino Brut

Spain

Available at World Market/Cost Plus 


 

 

 

 

Golden Omega Salad

In a mixing bowl or jar, blend one cup of corn oil with a third of a cup apple cider vinegar, a tablespoon of honey, a teaspoon of Colman's Dry English Mustard, and the seasoning salt of your choice.

 This amount of dressing is too much for one salad, but will be useful stored in the refrigerator for later. 

Pour dressing over a salad of lettuce, yellow peppers, and raw walnuts.

 

M-J's Original Food Cartoons

Tuesday, August 28, 2007

My Cartoons

Fed-Up with Whole Foods

Cartoon Copyright M-J de Mesterton., 2006
One of the great mysteries of the New Age: why do people who only shop at "Health Food" stores usually look deathly ill?


Oh, what a difference a comma makes...I couldn't deface that person's bumper-sticker, so I drew this cartoon instead.
Cartoon by M-J de Mesterton., July 2nd, 2007
(Sort of invalidates the term, "liberal", doesn't it, when one of their chief characteristics is telling others what to do...?)


Original cartoon by M-J de Mesterton, copyright 1992

Affordable Party Wines

Oak Leaf Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon

Oak Leaf Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon

The French drink their local wines for a couple of euros per bottle. Now, Californians can drink excellent wines by award-winning Oak Leaf Vineyards for $1.97 a bottle, and the rest of America is able to buy them for $2.97, providing they can shop at the right store.

At the prestigious Florida State International Wine Competition in the spring of 2008, a new brand, Oak Leaf Vineyards from California, won gold. With 84 wineries competing in the Chardonnay category, only four received gold medals, and among them Oak Leaf was the biggest bargain by far, at $1.97 suggested retail price in California and $2.97 in most other states.

"With the economy slowing and as we move into tax season where dollars are tighter, finding value in the wine aisle is ever more important," said Mario Pulido, winemaker for Oak Leaf Vineyards. Oak Leaf Vineyards provides very high quality wine at extremely good prices. Available in five varietals-- Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio/Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and White Zinfandel--Oak Leaf Vineyards wines have the qualities of wines costing three times their modest price. The traditional, tasteful label highlights four seasonal oak trees.

"Our first awards--Gold and Bronze at the 2008 Florida State Fair International Wine Competition and Silver and Bronze at the 2008 San Francisco Wine Competition show that our approach--'easy to drink with plenty of flavor'--is a winning one. With the money you save on wine, your family can enjoy those little extra things in life," continued Pulido.

Oak Leaf Vineyard wines are available nationally only at Wal-Mart superstores that are licensed to sell wine.

Extreme Value Wines Mean what they Say

Never in the 6,000-year history of wine has there been the choice, the quality, and more than anything, the values, available to the American wine consumer. With 100,000 labels in the market, that consumer can now find what he (and more likely she) wants at prices less than $2.00 a bottle. Amid new concerns about the current economic climate, everyone wants their dollars to go farther. Oak Leaf Vineyards is part of the new set of extreme value wines that are easy to drink, flavorful and over-deliver for a modest price.

Salt, the Seasoning of Life

Salt, the Seasoning of Life

Himalayan Salt, Oil on Canvas Copyright 2007 by M-J de Mesterton

Painting by M-J de Mesterton: Himalayan Salt, Oil on Canvas Copyright 2007 (Do Not Copy)


Salt and Health (from The Salt Institute–edited by M-J for clarity and legibility)

Salt is essential not only to life, but to good health. It’s always been that way. Human blood contains 0.9% salt (sodium chloride) — the same concentration as found in United States Pharmacopaeia (USP) sodium chloride irrigant commonly used to cleanse wounds. Salt maintains the electrolyte balance inside and outside of cells. Routine physical examinations measure blood sodium for clues to personal health. Most of our salt comes from foods, some from water. Inadequate salt can be problematic. Doctors often recommend replacing water and salt lost in exercise [see advice on maintaining hydration for weekend athletes, bodybuilders, professional athletes and outdoor athletes such as marathon runners and ultra-endurance athletes, and for those people working outdoors. Wilderness hikers know the importance of salt tablets to combat hyperthermia. Oral rehydration involves replacing both water and salt. Oral Rehydration Therapy (ORT) has been termed, by the British Medical Journal “the most important medical advance this (20th) century.” Expectant mothers are advised to get enough salt. Increased salt intakes have been used successfully to combat Chronic Fatigue Syndrome. The unique microclimate of salt mines is a popular way to treat asthma, particularly in Eastern Europe. Dramatic deficiencies (e.g. “salt starvation” in India) or “excessive” sodium intakes have been associated with other conditions and diseases, such as hypertension and stomach cancer. Testing the salinity of perspiration is a good test for cystic fibrosis; scientists suspect that cystic fibrosis is caused by a deformed protein that prevents chloride outside cells from attracting needed moisture (and, of course, we cannot forget that iodized salt is the choice of public health professionals to combat iodine deficiency, has been fortified to battle other diseases like lymphatic filarisis, and is considered “the first antibiotic”).

The National Academy of Sciences recommends that Americans consume a minimum of 500 mg/day of sodium to maintain good health. Individual needs, however, vary enormously based on their genetic make-up and the way they live their lives. While individual requirements range widely, most Americans have no trouble reaching their minimum requirements. Most consume “excess” sodium above and beyond that required for proper bodily function. The kidneys efficiently process this “excess” sodium in healthy people. Experimental studies show that most humans tolerate a wide range of sodium intakes, from about 250 mg/day to over 30,000 mg/day. The actual range is much narrower. Americans consume about 3,500 mg/day of sodium; men more, women less. The very large percentage of the population consumes 1,150- 5,750 mg/day which is termed the “hygienic safety range” of sodium intake by renowned Swedish hypertension expert Dr. Björn Folkow. Chloride is also essential to good health. Every substance, including water, can be toxic in certain concentrations and amounts; this is not a significant concern for dietary salt.

Salt and Cardiovascular Health

For 4,000 years, we have known that salt intakes can affect blood pressure through signals to the muscles of blood vessels trying to maintain blood pressure within a proper range. We know that a minority of the population can lower blood pressure by restricting dietary salt. And we know that elevated blood pressure, “hypertension,” is a well-documented marker or “risk factor” for cardiovascular events like heart attacks and strokes, a “silent killer.” Cardiovascular events are a major cause of “premature” death and cost Americans more than $300 billion every year in increased medical costs and lost productivity. Reducing blood pressure can reduce the risk of a heart attack or stroke – depending on how it’s done.

Some have suggested that since salt intakes are related to blood pressure, and since cardiovascular risks are also related to blood pressure, that, surely, salt intake levels are related to cardiovascular risk. This is the “salt hypothesis” or “sodium hypothesis.” Data are needed to confirm or reject hypotheses.

Blood pressure is a sign. When it goes up (or down) it indicates an underlying health concern. Changes result from many variables, often still poorly-understood. High blood pressure is treated with pharmaceuticals and with lifestyle interventions such as diet and exercise. The anti-hypertensive drugs are all approved by regulatory authorities such as the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. To be approved, these drugs must prove they work to lower blood pressure. Whether they also work to lower the incidence of heart attacks and strokes has not been the test to gain approval (it would take too long to develop new drugs), but the National Heart, Lung and Blood Institute has invested heavily in such “health outcomes” studies.

Health Outcomes

The ALLHAT study was funded by the National Heart, Lung and Blood Institute (NHLBI) to compare the health outcomes of four classes of anti-hypertensive drugs, all of which had demonstrated their ability to reduce blood pressure in relative safety. The idea is that blood pressure is only a “surrogate outcome,” and we should be more concerned with clinically meaningful endpoints. Dr. Jeffrey R. Cutler of the National Heart, Lung and Blood Institute (NHLBI) has supervised the study and explains its importance: “Trials are based on the notion that different antihypertensive regimes, despite similar efficacy in lowering blood pressure, have other beneficial or harmful effects that modify their net effect on cardiovascular or all-cause morbidity and mortality.”

Lifestyle interventions are “antihypertensive regimes” too. For years, the same situation prompting the ALLHAT trial applied to lifestyle interventions designed to improve blood pressure — they were untested regarding health outcomes. Certain dietary and lifestyle interventions reduced blood pressure, at least in sensitive sub-populations. Whether they also reduced the incidence of heart attacks and strokes had never been tested. Thus, until the 1990s, scientists had never tested the “salt hypothesis” by documenting whether reducing dietary salt actually reduces a person’s chances of having a heart attack or a stroke. As in the drug “health outcomes” trials, this is now changing. The results have vast public health policy implications. We should not be recommending that everyone change their diets without evidence of some overall health benefit.

Even documenting an association of, for example, low-sodium diets with reduced incidence of heart attacks would only be the first step. Association is not the same as causation. Nevertheless, unless an association is established, we have no reason to think that a causal link is possible. Of the first fifteen “health outcomes” studies of sodium reduction, three have found an association in the general population between low-sodium diets and reduced incidence of cardiovascular events like stroke or heart attack (and two of those were in exceptionally high salt-consuming societies). Three others have identified health risks of low-salt diets. Here’s what scientists have found:

1. A ten-year study of nearly 8,000 Hawaiian Japanese men concluded: “No relation was found between salt intake and the incidence of stroke.” (1985)

2. An eight-year study of a New York City hypertensive population stratified for sodium intake levels found those on low-salt diets had more than four times as many heart attacks as those on normal-sodium diets – the exact opposite of what the “salt hypothesis” would have predicted. (1995)

3. An analysis by NHLBI’s Dr. Cutler of the first six years’ data from the MRFIT database documented no health outcomes benefits of lower-sodium diets. (1997)

4. A ten-year follow-up study to the huge Scottish Heart Health Study found no improved health outcomes for those on low-salt diets. (1997)

5. An analysis of the health outcomes over twenty years from those in the massive US National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey (NHANES I) documented a 20% greater incidence of heart attacks among those on low-salt diets compared to normal-salt diets ( 1 2 ) (1998)

6. A health outcomes study in Finland, reported to the American Heart Association that no health benefits could be identified and concluded “…our results do not support the recommendations for entire populations to reduce dietary sodium intake to prevent coronary heart disease.” (1998)

7. A further analysis of the MRFIT database, this time using fourteen years’ data, confirmed no improved health benefit from low-sodium diets. Its author conceded that there is “no relationship observed between dietary sodium and mortality.” (1999)

8. A study of Americans found that less sodium-dense diets did reduce the cardiovascular mortality of one population sub-set, overweight men – the article reporting the findings did not explain why this obese group actually consumed less sodium than normal-weight individuals in the study. (1999)

9. A Finnish study reported an increase in cardiovascular events for obese men (but not women or normal-weight individuals of either gender) – the article, however, failed to adjust for potassium intake levels which many researchers consider a key associated variable. (2001)

10. In September, 2002, the prestigous Cochrane Collaboration produced the latest and highest-quality meta-analysis of clinical trials. It was published in the British Medical Journal and confirmed earlier meta-analyses’ conclusions that significant salt reduction would lead to very small blood pressure changes in sensitive populations and no health benefits. (2002)

11. In June 2003, Dutch researchers using a massive database in Rotterdam concluded that “variations in dietary sodium and potassium within the range commonly observed in Westernized societies have no material effect on the occurrence of cardiovascular events and mortality at old age.” (2003)

12. In July 2004, the first “outcomes” study identifying a population risk appeared in Stroke magazine. Researchers found that in a Japanese population, “low” sodium intakes (about 20% above Americans’ average intake) had one-third the incidence of fatal strokes of those consuming twice as much sodium as Americans. (2004)

13. A March 2006 analysis of the federal NHANES II database in The American Journal of Medicine found a 37% higher cardiovascular mortality rate for low-sodium dieters (2006). See their university’s news release. Hear a podcast.

14. A February 2007 reported in the International Journal of Epidemiology studied 40,547 Japanese over seven years and found “the Japanese dietary pattern was associated with a decreased risk of CVD mortality, despite its relation to sodium intake and hypertension.” (2007)

15. An April 2007 article in the British Medical Journal found a 25% lower risk of CV events in a group which years earlier had achieved significant sodium reduction during two clinical trials (TOHP I and TOHP II). (2007)

Controversy Continues For many years, the intense public controversy that has characterized the public policy debate over public health nutrition recommendations on salt intake has focused on the wrong question. Medical experts, public health policy-makers – and the public, trying to sort out the issues reading the consumer press – have all focused on the relationship of sodium intake to blood pressure instead of the relevant question of whether changing intake levels of dietary sodium results in improved health outcomes. See, for example, Salt Institute comments to the (British) Scientific Advisory Committee on Nutrition. The (British) Salt Manufacturers Association has further information (including its comments to SACN).

There is no evidence that reducing dietary sodium improves the risk for heart attacks or strokes for the general population. In 1999, the Canadian Hypertension Society, the Canadian Coalition for High Blood Pressure Prevention and Control, the Health Canada Laboratory Centre for Disease Control and the Heart and Stroke Foundation of Canada issued a joint statement opposing general recommendations for sodium reduction.

The U.S. Preventive Services Task Force Recommendations for a healthy diet, chapter 56 on “Counseling to Promote a Healthy Diet,” at page 634 states:

There is insufficient evidence that, for the general population, reducing dietary sodium intake or increasing dietary intake of iron, beta-carotene, or other antioxidants results in improved health outcomes (”C” recommendation); recommendations to reduce sodium intake may be made on other grounds, including potential beneficial effects on blood pressure in salt sensitive persons.”

The debate has confused the public. Medical journalists from ABC-TV’s 20/20 to America’s pre-eminent scientific journal, Science, published by the prestigious American Association for the Advancement of Science, have investigated the source of this confusion. The report in Science won author Gary Taubes a top prize from the National Association of Science Writers and has also been translated into French. Taubes concluded:

“After interviews with some 80 researchers, clinicians, and administrators around the world, it is safe to say that if ever there were a controversy over the interpretation of scientific data, this is it…. After decades of intensive research, the apparent benefits of avoiding salt have only diminished. This suggests either that the true benefit has now been revealed and is indeed small or that it is non-existent and researchers believing they have detected such benefits have been deluded by the confounding of other variables.”

In letters to Science, NHLBI contested Taubes’ conclusions, but others found them valid and valuable.

The Salt Institute is confident that the higher standards of evidence-based medicine will reduce the ongoing controversy, better inform public policy and reduce consumer confusion. For more information about the importance of evidence-based health, you may wish to visit the Cochrane Collaboration (particularly consider the 2003 Cochrane Reviews “Reduced dietary salt for prevention of cardiovascular disease” and “Effects of low sodium diet versus high sodium diet on blood pressure, renin, aldosterone, catecholamines, cholesterols, and triglyceride”), Oxford University (UK) Centre for Evidence-based Medicine, the Health Information Research Unit (McMaster University) or the Canadian Centres for Health Evidence. Using the latest science, we can create better public health nutrition policy and avoid sending confusing messages to consumers.

There is a lot of current activity on this issue, in medical research, public health policy and popular media ( 1 2 3 ). For further information contact the Salt Institute (or see an informative presentation by the Institute), federal Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, Journal of the American Medical Association (JAMA), The New England Journal of Medicine, American Journal of Hypertension, The Annals of Internal Medicine, The Lancet, British Medical Journal, Public Library of Medicine, Federation of American Societies of Experimental Biology (FASEB), American Heart Association, American Society of Hypertension (ASH), National Heart, Lung and Blood Institute (NHLBI), American Dietetic Association (ADA), Society for Nutrition Education (SNE), The American Society for Clinical Nutrition, National Food Processors Association, American Council for Science and Health and (British) Salt Manufacturers Association. Information about clinical trials sponsored by the U.S. federal government is also online.

Published in: on December 28, 2008 at 7:46 am

M-J de Mesterton's Cornish Pasties

 


Cornish Pasty Made by M-J de Mesterton

Cornish Pasty Made by M-J de Mesterton

I’ve been making Cornish pasties since the age of 20. My mother wrote a book about the pasty and its history which was published in 1990, but my method and ingredients differ from hers. The following is  my pasty (pronounced “pass-tee”) recipe: I will not formally transcribe my recipe and method for making pasties, because  I never use measurements. I can tell you, however, that they are made with a short crust containing both butter and lard, water, a teaspoon of malt vinegar, and unbleached, plain white flour. Since salted butter is used in the dough, add just a dash of salt to it.  I add sea-salt and hand-milled pepper to the filling, which consists of  four ingredients, diced very finely: tri-tip steak, which is always well-marbled and never tough; ordinary, high-starch brown-skinned potatoes, turnips, butter bits, and white or Spanish onions. The finely-diced beef and vegetables are tossed together in a mixing bowl with the salt and pepper before being laid upon the dough, dotted with butter and enclosed. The edges are crimped, either on top or on the side of the pasty, and a couple of well-placed slits are made in the top to allow steam to escape. The final product is brushed with a beaten egg mixed with a teaspoon of cream. The pasties are then baked in a very hot oven for close to one hour. Once the pasties have cooled for about twenty minutes, serve with an oil-and-vinegar-dressed lettuce salad. Offer Cornish cream, Spanish or Mexican Crema, or sour cream as an optional condiment. The pasties depicted here, which I made,  are the optimum size for a meal; the dough for them was shaped into a ball about half the size of a woman’s closed hand, then was rolled out and cut around a 7″ luncheon plate.  Making giant pasties just isn’t elegant, nor is it traditionally Cornish. I also make miniature pasties for parties, by using a tin can or the bottom, inner ridge of the same luncheon plate as a cutting guide. These mini-pasties are easily eaten by hand with a cocktail napkin to catch any pastry-flakes. For a basic short-crust guide, please see my Elegant Apple Pie recipe.~~Recipe and Pasty Photos Copyright M-J de Mesterton

Cornish Pasty Made by M-J de Mesterton, Copyright 2009

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